Carbon Steel Pans: Why Beginners Are Told to Skip Them

Carbon Steel Pans: Why Beginners Are Told to Skip Them

Liam Bennett

Carbon steel is a fast, light, high heat frying pan that develops a seasoned surface the way cast iron does. The reason it is rarely recommended as a first pan is not that it is difficult to cook in. It is that it usually arrives with no usable surface at all, and the buyer has to create one before the first meal, following instructions that differ from one manufacturer to the next. That is a real task on day one, and it is the thing the buying guides mention last.

The pans themselves are well covered online. What is not covered is the honest shape of the commitment, which is front loaded rather than ongoing, and which is easy to check before you buy: read the seasoning instructions for the specific pan you are looking at, before it is in your kitchen rather than after.

The difference that decides it: what arrives in the box

A cast iron skillet from Lodge arrives, in the company's own words, "seasoned and ready to use," because the factory has already baked a layer of soy based vegetable oil onto it.

Carbon steel usually does not.

de Buyer instructs owners of its steel pans to "wash your pan in hot water to remove the beeswax coating" before anything else. The wax is transit protection, not a cooking surface.

Matfer Bourgeat says the same in different words in its own seasoning instructions: the pan "leaves the factory with a vegetable oil-based coating to protect it during transit," and the first step is to "wash pan under hot water in mild detergent, using a bristle brush, if necessary, to remove all protective coating."

So the pan you unwrap is bare steel, and bare steel sticks and rusts. Everything that makes carbon steel worth owning has to be built onto it first. That is the answer to why nobody hands one to a person setting up their first kitchen, and it has nothing to do with how hard the pan is to cook in once it is working.

The two makers publish two different methods, and that matters more than either one

This is the part that catches people out, so it is worth stating plainly rather than resolving into a single recipe.

de Buyer's published method is a thin oil layer on the stovetop. Its instructions call for a neutral, high smoke point oil, naming grapeseed, avocado, canola, peanut or sunflower and stating its own preference among them, poured as "a very thin layer" into a pan on medium high heat. As the pan heats, the company writes, "that thin layer of oil begins to bond with the steel through polymerization, transforming the oil's carbon molecules into a hard, protective layer that strengthens over time."

Matfer Bourgeat's published method is potato skins, oil and salt. Its instructions call for sautéing oil, salt and the skins of two potatoes over medium heat while continually swirling the pan, giving quantities for a medium pan of one third of a cup of oil, two thirds of a cup of salt and two potatoes' worth of skin, discarding after fifteen minutes, then repeating the whole step a second time, then briefly reheating with a little oil and wiping out.

Both are correct for their own pans. Neither is the universal method, and a general "season your carbon steel at this temperature for this long" instruction is exactly the kind of advice that produces a patchy, sticky pan and a disappointed owner. The instruction that applies to your pan is the one its maker published for it.

What both descriptions share is the mechanism. Seasoning is oil that has been changed by heat and bonded to the metal, which is why it is built up rather than applied, why it improves with cooking, and why it can be rebuilt when it is damaged. It is also why a seasoned pan behaves nothing like a coated one. A coating has a service life and then it is finished, which is the subject of what actually ruins a nonstick coating. A seasoned surface has no such ceiling.

Ongoing care is short, but it is specific to the metal

The daily routine is not long. It is also not the same routine as cast iron, which is worth knowing before assuming one set of habits covers both.

de Buyer's daily instruction for its steel pans is to rinse in hot water, wipe dry with paper towel, and place the pan back on the stove to dry thoroughly, then wipe the surface with a little oil before storing. It states that carbon steel "is NOT dishwasher safe" and that harsh soaps and detergents should be avoided.

Matfer Bourgeat's ongoing instruction is to wipe with paper towel or rinse under hot water, and it says directly: "Do not use dish soap and do not allow pan to air dry." Its drying step is a brief spell on a hot burner followed by a light re-greasing.

Lodge's instruction for cast iron, by contrast, is to hand wash with warm, soapy water, then dry completely and apply a light layer of oil. Two seasoned metals, two makers, two different positions on soap. This is why the pan's own documentation is the only reliable authority on the pan, and why this page quotes the makers rather than issuing rules of its own.

Scallops searing in a metal pan

What carbon steel is actually good at

It heats quickly and responds quickly. It is thinner and lighter than cast iron, so it reaches temperature faster and it comes back down faster when the heat is lowered. That responsiveness is the single practical advantage over cast iron.

It takes high direct heat. Searing, stir frying and anything that wants a hot, dry pan.

It gets better rather than worse. The surface improves with use, which is the structural difference between a seasoned pan and a coated one and the reason the two sit in different categories in the four home cookware materials.

It is lighter than cast iron of the same size. Not light. Lighter. The handle is steel and it reaches the temperature of the pan, so a cloth or mitt is required equipment on the stovetop and in the oven, and the oven limit for a specific pan with a specific handle is a published figure worth finding, as set out in is my pan oven safe.

It works on induction. Carbon steel is ferrous. Checking any other pan is a separate exercise, covered in how to check if cookware is induction compatible.

What it is not good at, stated without enthusiasm

Acidic and long simmered dishes. Prolonged contact with acidic ingredients strips seasoning, the same mechanism that applies to bare cast iron. For tomato braises the coated surface is the right tool, and the two surfaces are compared in enameled versus bare cast iron.

Eggs and delicate foods on a young pan. A pan whose seasoning is thin is not yet a nonstick pan, whatever the product photograph implies. That comes later, or it does not come at all if the pan is washed with detergent every time.

Sitting wet. Bare steel rusts. The pan cannot be left on a drying rack and it cannot go in the dishwasher.

Being ignored for a month. Seasoning is maintained by cooking. A pan that is used twice a year is a pan that will be re-seasoned twice a year.

A chef cooking with flames in a professional kitchen

"Restaurants use these, so should I?"

The premise is fair and the conclusion does not follow, because a professional kitchen supplies the conditions the pan wants and most homes do not.

A pan in constant daily use on high heat maintains its own seasoning through use. It is dried immediately because it is going back on the range. It never meets a dishwasher. It is treated as a working tool that will be replaced, not as an heirloom.

A home kitchen that cooks this way will get on well with carbon steel. A home kitchen that cooks three times a week, cleans everything thoroughly with detergent and leaves things on a rack to dry will fight it. That is a fair description of most households, and it is the reason the pan has a reputation for being demanding rather than for being good.

If the honest answer is that your kitchen is the second kind, the two pan starting point in the two pans that cover most home cooking is the better buy.

The buying checklist

Question Why it decides
Have you read the seasoning instructions for this exact pan They differ by maker and they are the real commitment
Are you willing to season it before the first meal Most carbon steel is not usable out of the box
Will it be dried on the burner rather than on a rack Bare steel rusts, and this is the habit that prevents it
Do you cook hot and often Frequent high heat use maintains the surface for you
Do you cook acidic dishes for hours If yes, this is not the pan for those dishes
Do you already have cast iron Then the gain is responsiveness and less weight, not a new capability
Is there a mitt within reach of the stove The handle reaches the temperature of the pan

What this page does not tell you

Which pan to buy, or what one costs. No product is recommended and no price appears anywhere on this site. de Buyer, Matfer Bourgeat and Lodge are named only as the sources of the instructions attributed to them.

A seasoning temperature, time or oil of our own. The figures above are each attributed to the maker that published them, for its own pans.

A smoke point. Smoke points vary by oil and by refinement and are not constants that can be stated across a category.

Whether any pan is "safe" or "non-toxic." This page reports what the material is and what the manufacturer states about it, and points you at the documentation for your own pan.

How to clean a pan or remove rust from one. Cleaning and restoration methods are outside what this site covers.

FAQ

Is a carbon steel pan a good idea for a first kitchen? Usually not as the first pan. Most carbon steel arrives with a protective coating rather than a cooking surface, so the buyer has to season it before the first meal. A kitchen that cooks hot and often will get on with it; a kitchen being equipped from nothing has easier first purchases.

Does carbon steel come pre-seasoned? Generally no. de Buyer instructs buyers to wash off a beeswax coating first, and Matfer Bourgeat states that its pans leave the factory with a vegetable oil based coating for transit that must be scrubbed off before seasoning.

How do I season one? Follow the instructions published for your pan. de Buyer's method is a very thin layer of a neutral high smoke point oil heated on the stovetop. Matfer Bourgeat's is sautéing oil, salt and potato skins for fifteen minutes, twice. Both are published by the makers for their own pans and they are not interchangeable.

Can I use soap on carbon steel? The makers quoted here say no. de Buyer advises against harsh soaps and detergents and states its pans are not dishwasher safe. Matfer Bourgeat says do not use dish soap and do not let the pan air dry.

Is carbon steel better than cast iron? It is lighter for the same size and it heats and cools faster, which makes it more responsive. Cast iron holds heat better. Neither replaces the other, and both ask for the same drying and oiling habit.

Will it ever be as nonstick as a coated pan? A well maintained seasoned surface releases food well, and unlike a coating it does not have a service life that ends. Getting there takes use, and a new pan is not there yet.


Sources: first use, seasoning and daily care statements are quoted from de Buyer's published carbon steel seasoning and care instructions and from Matfer Bourgeat's published black steel seasoning instructions. The cast iron comparison points are quoted from Lodge Cast Iron's own guidance. No price, weight, smoke point or lifespan figure appears on this page, and no cooking result is described that this site did not observe. Nothing here is presented as tested or measured by this site.

Comments